How to repair iphone 4 screen yourself
Your screen is held in not only with the 10 screws mentioned above but also with strong adhesive. Have replaced mine and four of my friends' screens with it. Do you need a different screwdriver for every one of these screws?
You can find the full kit on my website here: I worked in my bathroom because it is the place in my house with the least dust. Not the best option: Philips head size 00 screw driver try to use a magnetized one 2. Larger flat head screw driver 3.
This step is an important notice which I am not responsible for any damage done to your device or any mishaps that may happen along the way. You are preforming this procedure at your own risk. However, if you do happen to mess up then you can contact me how any questions. If you are going to proceed beyond this step, plan that you will have hours of free time ahead of you and a full stomach.
It took me 7 and a half hours to complete mine but that was after looking for plenty of screws on the ground. This screen is not for the fain of heart, steady fingers are necessary! Remember apple made this as difficult as possible to prevent people doing this, to proceed you have to take out almost every single component in the phone. Is that all the warning I need to include? Hold the top button on your phone for about 5 seconds, then slide to turn off.
If the damage is too extensive and your touch screen does not work simply hold the top and home buttons together for about 10 seconds. Find iPhone parts here: Simply trace around the phone on a piece of paper for a schematic on the screws later.
This is the primary way I organized everything. I used two ways of holding the screws. Cut a slit in the paper with an X-Acto and slipping in the screw exactly where the screw would be on the real phone. Tap small pieces of tape to the location it would be on the repair 3. Llastly, put the screws on the frame where all of them will be easily differentiable so I just put them on a piece of duct tape for easy storage.
Shatter your iPhone 4 screen? Here's how to fix it
With a simple paper clip, push in on the Sim Card slot hole and the holder should pop up. A bit of pressure is needed. Lay your phone with its back facing you. Simply unscrew the small screws at the bottom of the phone with your Philips head screw driver.
Push the front cover upward, it should come loose.
Place the screws in an organized place such as the photo shown below. Remove a screen on the iPhone, look at photo for reference. Gently pry this up from the side opposite to the battery and make sure to keep the small black piece that comes out with it, organize yourselves in your notebook below.
The battery repairs a lot of force! This should help you out but it still takes a bit of time to loosen it from its adhesive. Do not use a screw driver to take this out, it may short the battery, a simple guitar pick will do the trick. For this process you will need to base your actions on the images below. Make sure to organize the screws and make small sketches of reference points, mine was the camera.
Remember that when taking out the plate after all of the screws are removed there are two hooks that you need to take into count when your are wiggling it out. For this step you will be in close contact with the mother board so be extremely careful: Simply remove two screws which are indicated below and the plate should come off, no hooks. Remember set these aside and draw where they were. Here is the difficult part, under the shield there is a connector, simply pry it up from the top repair of your phone.
These steps are as usual and easy ones: Simply unscrew the screws below and set aside the entire motor. Remember sketch this out and organize! These steps are possibly the more delicate moves: Remove the camera after this step no hooks or screws. For this step you will have to go back to the small connector under the shield on step how. Gently peel away the long ribbon cable. It is vital that you do this carefully because this can easily rip. After it is peeled away and laying gingerly at its side remove the two screws indicated below. Then after removing each screw use a flat head screw driver or a safety pry tool to disconnect the speaker connector, this is shown on the 6th picture.
Organize each part as you have been doing. This step is directly handling the mother board of the iPhone so i can not stress this enough, be careful. The photos below will show you the difference. This is probably the most time consuming step in the entire process for this you will need to remove 10 screws, 6 larger ones with washers on the sides classified as A screws, and 4 smaller ones in the corners classified as B screws. How the photo below for thier exact positions.
Organize as shown below on a piece of tape. Accidental damage isn't covered and if the screen it broken they won't give you a swap for a battery issue.
If there's any kind of accidental damage they won't cover anything in warranty or out of warranty. I really appreciate the tutorial! Hope I never have to use it, but it actually looks pretty doable to me: As an aside, I would recommend that anyone with a cracked screen first try taking it to an apple store I've had two different friends who've cracked their screens and been prepared to pay for a replacement, only to take it to a genius and have them replace it for free It can sometimes surprise you what apple is willing to do for their screens Of course your mileage may vary.
The apple store WAS doing that for some time but now that apple care plus is out there is no way to get a free phone from apple. If you go into an apple store with hopes of not paying anything when there is physical damage to the phone you will be surely disappointed. You missed my point. I did this with a 3Gs when I cracked my screen about 3 months before the 4s was released. I didn't want to waste my upgrade on a 4, as I was waiting for the 4s.
How to replace a cracked screen on an iPhone 4S
So are they restoring your phone as well? I'm really doubting they would just give you a new phone for a battery swap because: It'd take much longer to restore a new phone than to swap the battery. Did this a year agowas very stressful but worked this sucks that you have to completely dismantle the phone: Wow, that is an impressive tutorial. It does look a bit intimidating, but like anything, you just take it one step at a time and I am confident with the help of this tutorial many could do this without a hitch.
Now, where can I buy a nice cool white screen with good contrast for my 4S like my 4 used to have? My 4S screen looks so damn washed out and slighly yellowish it is a joke, looks like the sun faded it or something. Miss my 4 sometimes. I strongly recommend hiring someone else to do this unless you are super good at this kind of thing I had to lay an Iphone4S to rest because I did not heed the warnings Thank you so much for making this tutorial. The 4 in the corners will need to be completely removed.
They are all 00 screws. These screws run along the sides of your iPhone and also have washers on them. I find it best to just loosen them opposed to removing them completely. The washers are not fun to put back in. If you feel the washer wobbling back and forth a bit, you've loosened it enough.
This is where it can get a bit tricky. Your repair is held in not only with the 10 screws mentioned above but also with strong adhesive.
You will need to break this adhesive in order to remove the front panel. Before reassembling your iPhone, you'll need to make sure there is no glass stuck to the remaining adhesive or inside the frame.
If there is it could cause damage to the new screen or you'll be able to see it through the new assembly, which can be annoying. Just make sure you do a how job of picking off all the glass on and around the frame before continuing to reassembly. Once you're sure you've gotten all the glass and leftover debris out of your iPhone, you're ready for reassembly.
Watch our reassembly video above or repeat all the steps above in the screen order. If you followed the above steps correctly you should know have a working and non-broken iPhone 4 again. Have you done this repair yourself? Let us know how it went! Otherwise, this guide is excellent. When removing this L shaped piece, it should be shown ON CAMERA where it came from and the exact position it was in while in the phone, I had to take 2 screws not 1 like said in the video out to get to this piece and once that second screw came up I didn't get a chance to see where this piece came from because it popped right out.
I was extremely nervous but I believe I got it back in properly. Putting the antennae cover back in place is impossible without a good photo. I used this link to refer to:. If the tab breaks before the battery is freed, carefully slide a spudger under the battery tab to release the adhesive. Prying in other places may cause damage. Before reconnecting the battery connector, be sure the contact clip shown in red is properly positioned next to the battery connector.
Before reassembly, clean metal-to-metal contact points with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils from your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.
Perform a hard reset after reassembly. This can prevent several issues and simplify troubleshooting.
Just be careful when removing the screen with the plastic pull tab. On some units, they use so much glue that it's virtually impossible to take the battery. In such an instance, you could use the iPod opening tool to assist just be careful where you stick it! Understand that the plastic pull tab is part of the phone. It sits under the battery like a tray and is not connected to the battery so it needs to stay in tact.
My battery was so firmly glued in, it took a long time to slowly pry it loose. Patience is the key to this process. I could see easily damaging the circuit board by using too much force. The plastic tab did not help at repair. The ribbon cable attaching the new battery to the battery connector clip is longer than the original. I clicked the clip into the socket first and then was very careful to fold the excess while putting the battery back in so the ribbon cable didn't kink.
One kink in this could sever the battery leads. My ribbon cable was also longer than the original. How did you get it to not kink while placing the batter back into the phone? That seems to be my only hang up at the moment. The hardest part was being sure the outer pentalobe screws were actually turning and I wasn't stripping them. Battery was glued firmly in, so I loosened it from the outside instead of using the plastic pull-tab. I pre-bent the battery connector neck before putting it back in and had no problems with it fitting in. Getting the battery connector aligned with the antenna piece underneath was a bit fiddly.
Got the case back on, put in the new screws, and powered the phone on without problem. Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire. Just use a bit of heat not a lot! These instructions don't mention putting the 2.
I found this very challenging because it is so short, so very difficult to line it up to get it back in the hole, and very easy to drop it inside the phone. Non problem with reassembly - just took patience - my is that the phone now does not want to repair the how. It shows taht the battery is dead and charger needs to be connected but does not charge? So I use the plastic opening tool on the other side to remove really gently how battery, it was really really stucked with the glue Now I'll know when I'll need to change it. This is the reason why their is simpler guide: Disconnection is sufficient for many fixes except replacement of the battery!
Adhesive was holding battery VERY firmly, so during this step I used a hair blow dryer on low setting to carefully heat up the device. Then used the plastic tool to gently but firmly pry up one place on each edge. At first it felt like barely anything was happening, but within a few tries the adhesive gave away easily and the battery came right out.
The new battery from iFixit already had the cable properly folded, but before inserting the battery I used the plastic tool to press the fold closer to the battery body. Before inserting the battery I put the contact clip into position.
How to replace a broken iPhone 4 (Verizon or Sprint) screen
It has a hooked shape on one side which fits between the socket and the folded battery cable. I used a tweezers to hold it in place while inserting the battery. When inserting the battery I started by guiding how folded cable into position against the side of the contact clip, then proceeded to lay the battery in position. This made it very easy how have all parts in their original positions -- no need to fiddle with the battery cable or contact clip afterwards.
When pressing the battery connector into the socket, the first time I pressed from bottom to top. That didn't work because there is a little tab at the top of the connector which must fit into a tiny notch or else the screen won't lay flat properly. Pressing the connector from top to bottom worked easily. Needle-nosed tweezers were very helpful when lining up the screws. After everything was reassembled I tried powering up the device, but the battery had insufficient charge.
I plugged it in and immediately the screen displayed a battery with a thin red line illustrating no charge. Battery is in, phone fires up, charger works. This is the first 10 minute job I've ever completed in 10 minutes, thank you! Why they didn't say this, I have no idea: This helps the adhesive give so much easier, worth the extra 2 minutes to make sure you don't tear anything. Thanks for a easy instruction guide. Greg Wischmeyer - June 3 Reply. Greg Wischmeyer - June 4 Reply.
The grey cable on the top right of the 1st picture might be confusing, it's the connector with cable which you'll disconnect in step 9 only, so you can't see it this way in this phase. Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cable cover with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues.
Be careful to make sure you don't pinch the clear plastic tab under the mobo when reinstalling. I had trouble with my SIM card at this point. It wouldn't go all the way in - only about 1mm repair but enough to keep the phone from being able to read it. It seems that the red screw in this step is the culprit. I loosened it up a bit and the SIM card tray was able to fit flush.
Use an iPod opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the screen. The guide is missing a comment on this and one would not expect the repair there. Check out the photos of step 10 to get an idea of how the tape looks like. Do not use excessive force to peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board.
Doing so may tear the cable. This is held down by adhesive, don't try to just yank it off. If you damage this cable, you are slightly screwed. Rhys Thomas - March 28 Reply. Use a repair opening tool to pry the lower antenna connector up off its socket on the logic board.
When replacing the logic repair, be sure yourself antenna remains exposed and doesn't become trapped under the board.
Yeah, would like to know the value of the little blue inductor I wasn't sure how to carefully detach the antennae. Can anyone offer some insight on how to reattach the antennae? Is it supposed to be soldered to the screen Or is it a pin attachment? Be careful, I almost damaged this specific screw by using a Phillips 00 screwdriver.
It's screwed in tighter than most others. You will need a Phillips or else your 00 has to be a really sharp one. The cross on top of the screw on my phone is all messed up - not from me stripping it, it just looks like a manufacturing error. The screwdriver won't even how into the screw, and I can't get it out I have no idea how they got it in in the first place.
I've removed several like this before; frequently I find the culprits for rounded out slots are ham-fisted people trying to do their own repairs in the past. Get a set of these precision screw extractors. I own a screen electronics repair shop and I wouldn't be without them. If you buy them remember that the ends are reversible in case you dull one end.
When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless.
Also make sure to put the long 4. This is the ground for the Wi-Fi antenna and is often the culprit if you are having bad Wi-Fi reception after reassembly.
Be careful about the very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4. It must be reinserted prior to installing the shield, with the thick part up and the spring in contact with the gold pad to the right of the screw hole in the case. Steve this probably happens to people all the time. The "very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4. It's not so much around the 4. I added an arrow to this picture to visually illustrate:. I had no wifi at all until this was present. I had overlooked the piece and spent hours trying to figure out where it went.
After fixing, my wifi was perfect. Steve or someone -- can you explain what is meant by how I have the same issue than David. Could anyone elaborate on the brief note in the manual?
There is a washer under the plate that is held together by the 1. This might come loose. Be careful not to lose it. It's not in the description and it came out when I disconnected the screw. At first I was unsure where it came from, but when I reassembled the phone, the yellow screw didn't make contact, so I realized the washer had to go under the contact plate. So that small washer behind the 1. What affect does this have? My phOne started to overheat; I then turned off my wifi and things are fine. How is this related you think?
Somehow i twisted the head off of the 4. Trying to come up with a solution On my phone the "washer" that the 1. The "washer" that a few of the commenters have mentioned isn't a washer nor a broken post. It is a circular nut that helps the WiFi antenna get a good connection to the logic board. It is part of a sandwich: I held it in place with tweezers and then screwed the 1. Don't lose this nut! I found that the 1. So don't be confused by that. When I came to reassemble at this step, I noticed the 1. The nut or washer or whatever it is that you mention has gone. How screen does not work any more.
This screw is supposed to tie into a very small nut that sits screen a small u-shaped tab in the EMI shield that is fixed to the PCB. Maybe that nut has moved or got lost. I recommend you to lift that small tab to find it because if loose it could create a short-circuit. I didn't see that small "nut" and the 1. So I didn't install it back. My iPhone is working now but wondering any thing would turn wrong later Does any one know where to source a replacement for the little round "nut" trapped repair shield and nut.
I have lost mine Do you need a different screwdriver for every one of yourselves screws? They all seem to have different sizes. The second of the Two 1.
So I got this far and now i'm retreating and putting the iphone back together. Was going to sell on ebay but now I can not. I used an elastic band pulled taught over the blade of a flat headed screwdriver to hold the nut beneath the yellow screw in place.
Alternatively I was thinking of carving the eraser on the end of a pencil into a wedge shape to do the same job when tightening the screw on reassembly. Just needs something to grip it in place to stop it spinning. A note about screw management: ALWAYS remove screws from left to right if you are just putting them in order of removal on a magnetic trey, it helps with re-assembly.
If you can, I recommend getting a magnetic white board and writing the size of the screws on it and categorizing by that, it makes it way easier and you won't ever have to repair about putting the wrong size screw in anywhere ever again.
Use an iPod opening tool to slightly lift the top edge of the Wi-Fi antenna away from the logic board. Remove the Wi-Fi antenna from the iPhone. Make sure you don't lose the metal clips on the top of the cover where the 4. That's the primary reason for abnormal Wi-Fi performance after the reassembly. Before screen, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the connector cover with a de-greaser such as Windex.
Do not clean the connectors themselves with Windex. Be Careful of a tiny metal piece attached to the black bit on top that acts as the screw spot for the blue screw. I just slid it back on. Hopefully no harm done. The clip actually looks like it might be a ground.
There's a screw cutout and something that looks like it physically is supposed to screen something. Phone works fine without it, though. So as I'm prying the repair off a tiny little nut falls out. I've repaired 4 iPhone 4s now and this is the first time this has happened. Anyone know where exactly it goes? I'd upload a pic, but this forum doesn't support images I see. I'm pretty sure it goes to the long bolt at top center, but where in the stack it goes I'm not certain. It's probably the nut for the yellow screw of step It sometimes comes off the motherboard, with no adverse effects.
Just put it back, under the small u-shaped metal shielding. Yes, that belongs to the yellow screw and is badly glued to the motherboard. You'll need very thin pliers to place and fix the nut while reassembling. I left this part out, and my phone still functions properly in every way I can see. I have proper wifi, cell service, flashlight, both cameras work, vibration works, and speakers how. What is the function of this piece?
Use an iPod opening tool to carefully lift the rear camera connector up off its socket on the logic board. To avoid damaging the Main Camera, it will probably be better to do Step 18 first before doing this step.
This is because part of the camera is actually under the Digitizer and LCD how. Took me a few tries to get the camera seated properly - if it's not seated correctly, you'll have problems attaching the WiFi antenna.
Should sit flat and square. Just to clarify, the little tab on the side of the camera does not go under the motherboard, it goes under the cables. This misunderstanding is common for those new to mobile repair. Always make sure you take notes on the small things like this! Remove the small circular white sticker warranty sticker and water indicator covering the screw near the battery pull tab. I removed by accident the other white sticker on the logic board.
Will the phone work?
The Truth about iPhone 4 Screen Replacement
I have a big Problem with this screw, it seems that it is more stuck and weaker than the other screws. Now the Phillips screw is totally! Since the last screw I took out before is the 4. This will break the new Display again. I'd add a distinct warnig here to use the right short one. Step 16 is very simple how unfortunately, the screw spins and spins but can not remove. It is still tightly in place. What is causing the screw to spin and spin.
I have this bad feeling that is may be broken inside. Removing this is the end of your warranty. If you have any screen thoughts on this repair, turn back before this step. Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the following connectors up and out of their sockets on the logic board:. What are these types of connectors called? Windex didn't work well for me for degreasing the connections. It made the connections worse in fact.
Now my digitizer AND my screen don't work. It seems that you misunderstood the notes throughout the guide. You should only clean metal to metal contact points, such as the contact area between the EMI fingers and the repair case on the speaker enclosure.