How to paint a stained wood furniture
They have not chipped, peeled, or faded — they are still perfect — so I would highly recommend this method for painting cabinets. I actually used Minwax poly on a laminate table top and it looks great. Their newer shade Tudor may work for you.
You will have to sand. Here it is before…. Check out those cool handles. I just love those. So, not too bad, how The finish was nice enough just not the right shade for me. So I chose to use Minwax PolyShades. I blended these two shades until I came up with the color I wanted. I am always blending. Next, be sure to wipe away the dust well and then apply the Minwax PolyShades with a foam or bristle how.
So the choice is up to you. But paint to be clear, regular paint style brushes are easier especially if you are new to this product. See full disclosure here. Sorry for the awful picture quality on this one. I ended up doing about 3 coats, letting it dry completely read the can! If you just want to freshen up the color and shine you could stop at one coat.
Several thin coats are much better than one thick coat…. I polished up the hardware and it was good to go. Looks like a brand new piece of furniture.
And it truly was a super easy way to update wood. I also did a quick update with 2 coats on this furniture room furniture…. Note Winnie the Pooh. Aww, my son is a teenager now…sweet memories. I finished them in no time. Want to read about another super easy stain that I use and love? Click this post, here and here to read all about it! Pin this photo to update wood and save for later!
You may also like these similar makeovers: Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4. I love this redo! I have been following you on Facebook but now I am your newest blog follower! I know exactly how I want to use this technique! This will be perfect. The legs are in great shape, but the top needs some help. I used two coats and used steel wool for a light sanding between coats. They turned out wonderful! After they were installed, I used paste wax to provide protection for them. Everyone asks where we purchased our cabinets.
Thanks for the furniture, I never thought to use it on previously stained items. Oh I bet those did turn out beautiful! Great idea to use the wax wood them. Thanks for stopping by!! These are some awesome transformations! I love what you did with all the pieces!!! I love the transformation too. I saw you linked up at Ginger Snap Crafts. I am co-hosting a link stained this week called Tell Me Tuesdays! Beth The First Year Blog. It is an wood way to transform old furniture for sure.
Thanks for stopping by: I love the transformations! The dark stain is great. I also love the Minwax Polyshades. So much easier than the traditional stain, wipe off, then seal. Just brush it on! Thanks for the inspiration! Yes, I am loving the darker stains now. LOVE the first one!! Well, all of them actually, but that first one! What a difference that made!! I love the handles stained That is what got me. And all polished up against that dark stain…. Thanks for the sweet words! Wow that does sound easy. I love how much more modern the pieces look with a darker wood tone. I am always on the lookout for easy to use products that give great results.
Thank you for this paint. Yes, that is a favorite of mine. It is so rich looking and the perfect shade. I hope it was helpful. This is really, really good. Plus, pinning your project.
I really need to remember this! Yes it is stained easy and can really freshen up those old pieces! Thanks so much for the follow and the pin! I am sure you could actually although I have never done it so I cannot say as to the end result or the best way to do it! I think this might be best for smaller projects honestly.
Just my opinion from using the product: Love your stain technique Nancy and how beautiful these pieces turned out! You have inspired me to redo some pieces now!!! It really is a nice, easy way to change up furniture without all the paint of sanding, staining etc. Hope you had a great weekend. Wow, they both look fabulous! What an amazing transformation on both of them. Always so inspiring to visit your blog!! Thank you so much for sharing with us at A Bouquet of Talent this week. Have a wonderful week.
Aww thank you so much for the sweet words Kathy!! I hope you also are having a wonderful week!! As always, thanks so much for hosting the party! I love to refinish furniture and will have to look into polyshades! I have a beautiful golden oak pedestal table and chairs that were just so dated. So, with the help of your wood I re-stained them with the Minwax black satin PolyShade.
Thank you again Nancy for such an awesome tutorial. Aww that means the world to me! Thank you so much for the kinds words and furniture the time to comment. I am so glad your table and chairs turned out so beautifully! I hope you have had a wonderful weekend! I was wondering if you had to wipe the stain and let it dry before you added another coat or if you just put it on like a coat of paint how let it dry. Hi Melissa, No, there is no wiping like that with this product.
You do literally apply it like paint…or like the finish poly. This product sits on top of the piece where as stain penetrates the wood. This is an easy fix to get the look of a deeper or darker or even a different color stain without having to go through the process of sanding wood down to the bare wood and then staining and polying, etc.
I do sand very lightly between coats. Nancy — great project and the finished piece looks fantastic! Thanks for the helpful directions, tips and photos — all quite good. Hey girl…I was googling Minwax poly shades in esspresso to see if I could find a comparison stained the satin and the gloss and your night table painted up ha ha! Love the dark stain. You used satin, right? I already bought it but wanted to be sure. Your pieces stained look so much more up to date. Love what a little stain can do!
I went to sisters unique yesterday, got some paint and forgot to get more wax, ugh!! That is how funny. Yes, I use Satin in most everything…. Oh, I bet that table is going to be fantastic…you always find great stuff!
You are so talented. I have a dresser that my husband has already completely sanded. Our original plan was to paint it black not wanting to put much time or money into itbut I have been pondering more of an espresso stain. After seeing your finished piece, I thought Minwax polyshades might be the way to go. But since it is already sanded, would you recommend a stain? Hi Nancy, Hmm, well, honestly, if it were my piece and already sanded completely down down to the bare woodI would use a regular stain and then put a poly coat over top. Polyshades is great for those times you want to update and maybe not want to do all the sanding work.
You can do either of course, that is just how I would do. And thank you so much for the sweet words! I started with one small end table and spent an entire weekend stripping and sanding, and one year later, there it is, paint sanded and unstained. This looks like a great solution. Thank you for the tips. Your link was furniture in line. Hi Shawna, Thank you so much. If I were you, I would sand it to get the wood poly finish off, give it another coat of the white, let it dry thoroughly and then wax it. Just apply the wax with cheesecloth, let dry minutes and buff with a clean white cloth.
Then leave it alone for at least 24 hours before moving it! Hope this helps, and sorry your furniture yellowed! Thanks for the clarification. I am reading you post and taking notes. I plan on painting a wood dresser white this weekend. Of course I misread the paragraph!! My next stop is for Minwax finishing paste!! Erin, do you sand even if you use spray paint? If there are no brush strokes, is sanding between coats still necessary? Hi Erin, Thanks for your website! I want to use about six different colors but all the paint store has are quarts or gallons.
Any ideas where to get small amounts of semi-gloss paint? You could always check there to see what colors are available, and keep in mind you can always mix your own! Grab a few colors and furniture them to get a shade you like. I would just have to be sure to seal it well with a non-yellowing sealer as some of the colors will be light. Hi Erin, Great post thank you for the instructions!
Do’s and Don’ts – Painting Furniture With Chalk Paint
If i sand it do you think that will be ok or will i need a paint stripper? My wardrobe has a laminated finish. Yes, that is a large thin piece of wood that is glued onto a piece of compressed wood chips. How do I paint that in white? Sanding will not be a good idea. For laminate, you can sand it but you just have to be very careful. I would just lightly hand sand it with a finer grit sandpaper, taking special care around the edges.
You just want to rough up the surface enough for the paint to be able to grab on. I have sanded laminate several times with no problem. And of course use a good primer. Not to be confused with chalkboard paint. Thanh Le My Blog: Just bookmark your blog for more explore!
I will definitely share this post with others. Hello, thank you so much for this blog. I have been wanting to repaint my daughters dresser white, that is currently painted black. It actually looks just like your dresser, but I believe it is plywood, or some other form of wood. Would I follow the same instructions that you gave to Sri, since its not real wood? Yes, I would recommend sanding lightly and use a good primer.
Be sure to lightly sand between coats too. I am getting ready to take on my first furniture painting project and this has been extremely helpful. I do have one question though. I acquired the dresser extremely cheap at a rummage sale. There are about a dozen dime to quarter size areas of damage where the laminate is completely gone and some of the areas are slightly raised.
Would I just lightly sand around the areas and try to sand raised areas furniture Thank you so much! Sorry for the delay. Somehow I missed your comment! I would use a wood filler on the spots where laminate is missing and then lightly sand the whole thing smooth. Follow with primer and paint. Hi, I was wondering if you need to paint in a certain temperature? Also, where do you usually do your painting? Great tips for beginners like me! There are temperature guidelines on the paint can which you should follow for proper application.
Sometimes I paint inside the house, especially if a piece is way too heavy to lug in and out. They do make tinted primer which is gray, and it is especially for use with darker paint colors. If how go to the paint counter at someplace like Home Depot or Lowes and explain what you need, they can match you up with the right primer for the job.
Yes, you can paint it. You can use regular sandpaper or a sanding block a few bucks at the hardware store. It will take a few hours total but I usually spread out the work over several days to account for drying times, etc. So it might furniture me almost a week from start to finish if I break it up like that, working for maybe an hour each day. You want to lightly sand between coats and allow to dry completely between coats. If you work for several hours each day you could probably knock it out in a weekend. Seeing the photos before and after the painting, the dresser has been done younger.
Before,it was sad and with old aspect and later I see that it is nice and with bright colours. Did you look for this? I have two questions for you. First question — how do I sand those hard-to-reach places? Thank you in advance for your answers and thank you SO much for this post!
Thank you for stopping by! As for the hard to reach places, I usually use a small sheet of sandpaper and hand sand the crevices as best as I can. If the piece is already pretty clean and in good shape to begin with, then I usually paint this step altogether. Would it be possible to add a shopping list of the items you used and the qty based on general dimensions, i.
Here is a link to this stained dresser where I mention each product brand and color that I used, etc.: You are right on! The stained is in the prep and lightly sanding between coats. I did a bed and dresser last summer. My first attempt and it was great. It takes more time because of the drying time between coats, and ventilation, ventilation, ventilation. But, the results were amazing. The finish looked professionally done! I plan do do more odd pieces, but of course, not over do.
One can only have so many painted pieces! Oh, now I am so sad. Following Home Depot instructions for painting bedroom furniture I paint flat paint and semi-gloss poly. Would you use the wax on flat paint or should I use the poly? FYI It does need one more coat of paint. Not sure why they told you that, hmm. Anyway, use the wax and it should turn out fine. Because that is what I have wood, how way, I think I will exchange it for the wax. Oh, the Polycrylic is different and it is not supposed to yellow. Please let me know what you end up choosing to do!
Good luck either way! Uh oh, I decided to use the wax Minwax Finishing Paste. I put it on with cheesecloth, waited minutes and buffed it until my arm wanted to fall off. Sounds like it went on too wood in some spots. I would sand those spots and touch them up if possible. To apply the wax, put a small amount on the cheesecloth, then double it over and apply it through the second layer of cheesecloth.
That stained give you the perfect amount. It should be super thin. Do I need to prime it even though the paint is flat? I will also how using Krylon spray paint. Yes, I would definitely prime no matter what. Primer will help seal the surface and provide better adhesion. I love to see your before and after furniture pictures. The actual gift though is to envision it done when it looks its worst. Looks so pretty with black and white ,thanks for sharing all instruction….
Thanks for sharing this beginners guide on painted furniture and how to paint it, I have found it really useful. Thanks for this DIY step by step info. This will be my furniture time ever doing a project like this. I am painting a dresser I have had since child hood for my baby. He will be born this year! Thanks for stopping by!
Congrats on the baby. Thank you so much for writing this! I am about to embark on painting our nightstand and will certainly be following your procedures. The paint on it is flat with gold leaf trim. I actually want to keep the original coloring on it but want it to look fresh as I am completely redecorating her furniture. I have no idea what kind of paint is on this furniture. It could be lead-based gasp! Can I or should I take a paint chip somewhere to have it tested first?
I love your blog by the way! I hope that some of my projects turn out half as wonderful as yours! Most hardware stores Home Depot, etc sell lead paint test kits which allow you to find out for sure. You can ask them at the store or search their website how it. If it does in fact contain lead, you can either have an wood do the removal for you or you can very carefully do it yourself. Just be very careful as you can release the lead dust into the air.
Thanks for getting in touch! Ok, so much for that idea. So ok, he wont let me paint them. My daughter wants a hot pink and zebra room. The furniture is a dingy grayish color? Any suggestions would be much appreciated. This is something that can easily be painted back to the stained later on.
And yes, fabric on the headboard would be a good and temporary fix too. What do you recommend i finish it with? I sanded down my desk as well and then painted on a satin finish, but it basically just reversed a hard days work, because it made it look all shiny again! I really like the way it looks now, so do i have to finish it with something? You can let it cure, but it takes about a month for paint to cure completely. Another option is to use furniture wax to protect the finish. You can buff it to your liking — the more you buff, the juniper it gets.
I have a wood table that was painted white.
I want to stain it now. Do I need to completely remove the white paint How do I go about removing it? Continue to sand it or do it another way? You will have to strip the paint off first. You can use a product like CitriStrip or Smart Strip. Here is my tutorial on that: How you can condition the stained and stain it.
I hand sanded but you can certainly use a sander. I would hand sand at the end to distress it though if you plan on doing that. You have much more control that way. Erin have you tried chalk paint? There is no need to pre-sand. Makes life so much easier and the look far exceeds any other painting how. This is a topic that is near to my heart… Cheers! Exactly where are your contact details though? Also visit my webpage: If you plan on using your dresser highly, use quality hardwood that will be able to withstand the usual wear and tear and will not scratch easily.
However, if you find that you will not be using the dresser often, you may opt to use wood options that are more affordable albeit a little less durable. Plans For Dresser Building.
I notice that on my wax it says it has the wood chemicals known for birth defects. I usually love to wax but want to be on the safe side! Just give it a good 30 days without touching it or putting anything on top of it. However, wax is ok too.
There are chemicals in it so if you are pregnant, I would recommend having someone else apply it for you. I love that you painted the dresser white! I painted all my furniture white last year but sadly, I did not finish it with a furniture product. Maybe you could sand them? I really wish you were in Caribbean… and help me out on this. Inexpensive furniture and painted after sounds amazing! I definitely agree with you—I try to keep beautiful wood esp. My faves to paint are the mass-produced mahogany pieces from the post-war era. Only because there are so many out there, and they tend to be rather ugly.
Do you mind if I link back to this post at wood point? You can use polyurethane if you get the stained product and apply it correctly. Polyurethane needs to dry in very thin coats. I could write a wall of text describing the process but I just wanted to chime in and let people know that it is very much so an option the best in my opinion even on white pieces. Hello I love your dresser and I plan on copying it for my bedroom furniture.
I was talking to my husband after reading your tutorial and he suggested instead of sanding using a round wire type brush that attaches to his drill. What do you think about that. I would be careful of anything that will leave deep scratches on the surface as those will show up after you paint. If it is intended to sand, then it should be ok. Let me know if you end up using it! Hi Erin, thank you so much for this post! I was wondering if you could help me. I would say sand and prime! You could skip the topcoat as long as you let it cure for a month without setting anything on top of it.
My furniture is Tomeka and I wanted to know if I could sand my table and chairs inside my apartment.
I really had my heart set on this project. If it helps any, I actually just painted two pieces of furniture that were too heavy to haul downstairs and outside so I did everything inside, including sanding. I even used an orbital sander on some parts. My main advice is to use large drop cloths to cover the surrounding area, definitely wear a mask, and a shop vac will come in handy too if you have one. You are right about the staining though — this part needs to happen outside or in a very well-ventilated area. I love your dresser, I too have some old furniture I am looking at up-cycling.
I have been reading and have found a paint that you dont need to do anything except paint on. Anne Sloan paint, has any one used this, its seems quite expensive, but perhaps the expense is worth not having to sand and prime???? Yes I have heard of it and I even have a sample pot of it that I have not yet used. I know a lot of other bloggers who absolutely love this paint, and yes it does eliminate the need to sand and prime. This paint is awesome for the shabby chic look, although with sanding it afterwards you can achieve a more modern look as well.
A little bit goes a long way, so although it is pricey it does last a long time. Let me know how you wood it if you end up trying it! Hi Erin, I have a dresser that has a tan colored paint on it, and the paint is peeling in spots. You can pull it off furniture your fingers in the spots that are peeling.
At one time I had painted this same dresser yellow, about 20 yrs ago. Then stained 15 years wood, I had painted it orange. Is there a painless, inexpensive way to fix this problem and use the can of creamy white latex paint that I have on hand?
I wish I could say there is a completely painless way — but it will take some work. There are a couple of options. First, you could just try sanding it all off or at least until it sands smooth with a power sander I use an orbital. For your other question — How to choose a color of paint? I always go with my favorite colors. A light grey blue would look nice. Subtle and beachy, but neutral enough to go with everything. I would get a few paint chips at your local paint store how place them in the room on the actual furniture. Tape them onto the sides. It is a great piece, originally varnished pine I think.
Wish I found your tutorial before I had started. I sanded until I lost interest to start with, then did a coat of universal not specifically for wood or glass or anything primer, because I already had a can. It adhered fairly well. Can I go back and just do another primer coat now over the previous primer and two paint coats? And then another paint coat? That would be 5 coats total! Also, what do I do about the brush strokes?
Hi Diane, Found you on Pinterest and I love all of your posts! Last summer I took my old dresser, headboard and mirror from my parents house and painted it white for my daughter. It did NOT turn out how I had hoped. I used stained spray paint primer, paint and a top coat. I want it to be white, and I want it to have a smooth much shinier finish. Suggestions on where I should start would be SO helpful!! Hi Vicki — It sounds like you used a flat paint finish instead of a semi or gloss finish.
White spray primer is flat. Any paint finish can go over that. You can buy white spray paint in a variety of finishes — you would need to use a gloss to get the shiny easy to dust surface you are after. You can also use regular white paint in a furniture or gloss finish and a brush over the furniture instead of spray paint. Before you start though -You mentioned that you put a top coat on — was this a polyurethane or just a topcoat of paint?
If it was a poly then you would have to sand it a bit to remove that finish so the new paint has something to grip onto and then reapply a white paint over it that is semi-gloss or gloss. That goes over any surface. Once the paint is dry — To get a shiny smooth finish — you apply paste wax over it and paint with a soft cloth to reveal a shine. I have an old two piece hutch of my husbands great grandmothers i am looking into painting this color or similar to add in the living room….
I just love this shade and maybe a softer shade. I actually have a huge wooden monogram in this color hanging over our bed, but I think I may need something softer for such a big piece. Can you suggest a brand of paint and a particular color? The paint and color I used to paint the dresser is from Glidden. Sherwin Williams has a similar color — Capri SW Benjamin Moore has a color that is a bit lighter called Bahaman Sea There are many good brands of paint on the market. I have stained them all. I prefer Glidden, Sherwin Williams, and Behr. If the piece is going to get a lot of wear — Behr makes a latex enamel that will give you a nice durable finish.
Thank you so much for your reply…I just love all your projects and style, so I trust what you use will be perfect!!!! Hi Diane, I am attempting to paint my daughters old wood furniture white. I sanded all the old stain off, used two coats of primer, three coats of wood paint Gliddon White on White. I used flat at the suggestion of the Home Depot guy who how I should use polycrylic over the top so the paint of the paint didnt matter. However, after research, I decided to use Minwax Finishing Paste over the flat paint. I am so frustrated! After all my hard work, the finishing paste gave my white furniture a peachy tint.
I read above how you said the Minwax is orange and the Johnson is clear. Any suggestions how I can fix without starting the whole process over? Hi Michelle — I have learned to never listen to what the guys at the home improvement store have to say about anything decorative: They are knowledgeable on most things, but not color issues and pretty stuff: On the first piece of furniture I painted with white chalk paint, I waxed with the orange Minwax and had the same problem occur.
What I did was buff, furniture, and buffed some more with the loop side of a terrycloth towel to get the orange look off the finish. Once I got most of it off, I touched up the areas that still had an orange tint with one thin layer of paint. It turned out fine.
It is one of my favorite pieces now. A little more work and you will see results. I just redone a dresser sanded itused Kilz Max then painted it …The paint comes off on the corners and edges …Gave ample drying time …What should i do now …Tried to touch upbut the white just shows through …Should i just start over with original Kilz. I used a turquoise colored paint Sherwin Williams …. I am ready to paint my new wood dining table, and I was advised at the store to just use a paint with Primer already in it. Should I go back and return it, and buy the kilz primer and the primer free version of the paint?
Just wondering if you have tried this method or know of a good one for painting that fake pressed wood material you find in cheap furniture? I have a desk I want to replace but I would probably like it if I could paint it… Thanks for your help!
How To Paint Furniture: A Beginner’s Guide
The best way to paint pressed furniture that is sandwiched between a veneer is to use a gripping primer first. If any of the veneer is chipped off. Spread some Spackle or wood filler over the exposed area. When it is dry- sand it smooth- then prime and paint. This is such wonderful information. Thank you so much for all of your tips and tutorials. I just found your blog and I will be folloiwng! I covered the existing pulls with stained napkins.
Here is the link to the post showing how I made them. But it has this ridiculously shiny gloss on it is this what is causing the paint to chip off and not stick? Your piece can look beautiful wood with a little work. I would sand the piece to get all the shine off of the finish, if it takes you to the bare wood in spots — that is fine.
I would use either satin or semi-gloss and if you use an enamel formula — you will paint a very durable finish. When a surface is shiny — paint has nothing to adhere to and that is why it peels and chips. The time you spend on the prep — sanding and priming will make all the difference. We built our home three years ago. The builder was supposed to stain the bannister dark brown and paint the spindles white.
They did not do that and ended up just putting polyurethene on it oak. They always take the easy route when they can: Stain will not take very well over polyurethane. Paint will, but stain needs to seep into the wood so you will get a nice even color coverage. Painting the balusters with Kilz and then paint will work fine.
For the banister — you could find a paint that matches the stain, but that would look too opaque. I think the best thing you can do is sand the banister as best you can and then use a how gel or spray on stripper to remove the rest. Once it is gone — use stain pre-conditioner sold on the same aisle as stain before applying the stain. This will ensure you get even coverage of the stain all over the banister. Then rub your stain on — then poly. It seems like a lot of steps, but if you do a little bit each day — you will be rewarded with what you want for a long time to come.
Hi Again Francine — I just went to the hardware store and asked about your polyed oak banister. I was told you could try using gel stain over it. It comes in a can. I have used the black opaque stain over poly and it works, you just need to sand the surface a little bit. Since you need a wood color to match your floor this may work perfectly for the banister.
So use Kilz and paint for the balusters — try gel furniture in a tone that matches your floor for the banister. First, your dresser looks gorgeous! I love everything about it! I primed first and have already sanded out and repainted my first coat of paint. If I use a foam roller, I get bubbles, if I use a fine nap roller, I get bumps, if I use a brush or paint pad I get ridges. Any tips on getting a truly smooth finish? The key with using a foam roller is to not press hard — just roll over gently — the bubbles appear when you press hard and the air is released, They do go away as they dry.
If you get ridges with a brush — try to lessen them by going over with feather light strokes and then in between coats use fine grit sandpaper to smooth out. As far as a fine or low nap roller — you could be applying too much paint.
Light even coats are better. I am not a fan of paint pads except the type with the wheels for painting at the ceiling line. It also could be the quality of paint or how well you mixed it. So many things determine the perfect paint job. It sounds furniture you are almost there — some pieces just seem to take the paint better than others. Using the best quality brushes — Purdy can make a huge difference. I would wood make sure to use fine sandpaper in between each coat and a tack cloth to smooth the previous coat.
It is an extra step, but can make a big difference. Looks like you did a great job, thanks for sharing. You can make it fit so much better by doing this. This turned out wonderful! And the hardware looks great how the color.
I think it can add so much character to a room. Your daughter picked a great paint. I am hoping you can help me make a decision. I am redoing my home office. I was looking for a glam look complete with a crystal chandelier.
Super Easy Way to Update Wood Stained Furniture
I wood all the furniture black except for a french armoire. I love the style but not the natural wood color. Would it ruin the glam feel that I am after. I am alittle nervous to ruin it if I paint it. I love your work. I have a sander and thought to do that first. In your opinion, do you think it might work? That dresser paints amazing. Those drawer handles look amazing. So informative and helpful!
And beautiful job on that dresser! Thank you so much for sharing your tips!! Thanks for sharing your painting tips, I look forward to taking on some projects in the near future!
Wonderful post and gorgeous work! I love that color… my master bedroom remake is going to be just that color and chocolate brown with a dash of some lighter greens and tans. Can you ship me this dresser? I read through your instructions and found that you and I have done exactly the same process for our painting.
I completed two dresser redos, one in a four shades of pink and another in four shades of lavender. You can check them out on my blog. I love the ombre shading style that is popular right now. Both dressers sold the next day of posting them for sale at asking price! I base it on the care and love put into creating beautiful works of art… it shows! I was a professional decorator, and I have been painting furniture longer than a lot of the bloggers have even been alive. It is always best to prime. Let it dry wood first, preferably out in the paint. Lookin forward to more of your expertise,maybe on antiquing furniture?
Would love to know your tips. Am I just putting too much paint on the inside? HI Jaye — you are probably right about adding too much paint. That is the 1 mistake most make when painting. Thin coats are the way to go. If your drawers are sticking try using a sanding block to rub the sides down a bit and stained rub a white candle over all the sides. The wax may help the drawers glide in a little better. Wood expands with the weather so if you live where the seasons change you will notice they will close better in the winter months.
One question about the handles, did you paint a pattern on those too or purchase them printed? They are the most perfect finishing touch. Hi Aimee — I did a post about how I made the pulls. I should link that in this post for anyone that has not read it. I used napkins and a product called EnviroTex Lite. You can find the post here — https: Diane, what a great, comprehensive tutorial. I just started painting furniture. My husband always did the refinishing and painting. Since he always did a great job, I let him.
However, I grew impatient. This was just great. I just did a bureau in chalk paint. Everything is an experiment. My first drawer I applied too much wax, what a nightmare trying to rub that off. However, I took it out on the front porch one sunny afternoon and rubbed and buffed. The heat of the sun made the wax much easier to buff off the excess. I learned not to apply so much on the rest of the piece. You sort of get a feel for things. You have a great blog and you seem to have a lovely family. HI Kim — Thanks for the nice note. Painting is easy once you know how to do it and feel confident.
It is the easiest and most inexpensive way to transform just about anything. I am going to add your tip in the post I do — Place it in the sun to warm it up a bit so the wax softens so you can easily remove excess wax — very smart!!!
Thanks for sharing it. Yes, I still have to use at least 2 layers of chalk paint, too. Annie Sloan does have a book out, however, aimed at kitchen cabinet painting with the chalk paint. Hi Serena — I am going to have to find that book. I would like to see her tips and method for painting kitchen cabinets — Thanks for telling me about it. In answer to your previous question — yes I have used Chalk Paint on 3 different pieces and I love it. I will be posting a cute little corner cabinet next week that I used glaze over — it was for my furniture and I had a hard time giving it to her after I painted it — it painted out better than I imagined.
Do you ever used chalk paint? How a desk that I rescued from a dumpster and stained with Annie Sloan chalk paint. I was recently blessed with an old mahogany sideboard and table and chairs. They really are quite similar. My biggest question is how do you decide between regular paint and chalk paint? Especially for an important piece of furniture? Also…recently we repainted our ADK chairs and the paint has remained tacky.
I talked with the store employees and they said that the newer paints can be a problem. Adding a little water to prolong dry time and allow the paint to lay nicely is very helpful in reducing brush marks. Again, this is used to prolong dry time and allows the paint time to settle and dry super smooth with no brush marks. Hope this helps Brandy! Did you hand sand or use an electric sander? It looks so perfectly even. What grit of sandpaper do you use? Also did you use one coat of paint or two? I did furniture it a light sanding with a fine grit inbetween the two coats of milk paint.
I also gave it a quick overall final sand to how on the furniture coat before I waxed it. Did you paint just the drawers? When I distressed it I got a halo effect from the primer showing so I stopped and left it solid. What would you have done in this case? When I paint with lighter colors especially whites! For darker paints I use my discretion. It really depends on the piece.
Just as you mentioned, I hate using a wood primer under a dark paint and then if distressed, you see the white come through…grrrr. Solution is to tint the primer dark or how forgo it all together like I did here. I also want to use the same hardware you chose, where might I find it? Thanks Kristi, so glad you like the desk! The cup handles are from Hobby Lobby. Thanks Denise, I have learned so much from your posts. I will keep this one as a bookmark so I can refer back to it again. I am retired now and repair and refinish furniture for fun. I too sell all my completed projects.
You truly are an inspiration to me. Keep up the great posts!!! Thank you so much for sharing such valuable info.
Keeping this close by for reference! Do you have a post that explains how you line your drawers? Do you use fabric or paper? Mod-podge, or just cut to fit and lay it in? You really are an inspiration — thanks for all the wonderful tips and access to your beautiful work! The drawers on this desk are lined with a gorgeous heavy upholstery fabric which does require measuring. I also use heavy-duty paper and lighter paper as well. It just depends what I have on hand and what paint or design I feel looks best with the piece. Because I sell all my furniture, I rarely adhere the liners unless the buyer requests it.
Your tips were great. I especially like Bullseye primer and have had furniture results. I am a Fusion girl stained Thanks as how for your info on how to make our pieces as professional as yours You never fail my friend and yes I love love love the desk transformation Janet. Great post, thanks for taking the time to share these tips. Denise, again, this piece is just fantastic! Would love to see a post explaining the process, materials used for this one. And this piece was so easy-peasy-quick, it would be a pretty short post. Then I sanded to get the distressed look and waxed and buffed for a nice sheen.
Wish all my pieces went this smoothly. Wow, that was easy! Guess the wood was in great condition, it looks like it got new stain. Your email address wood not be published. I'm so happy you dropped by!
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